When I design bespoke I really take into account the clients figure. Yes we can talk generically about pears and apples but really what I do is balance the outfit so as to get the most of their shape.
If we take a look at this design, you can get an idea of what I look at.
So with my eye I will be working on firstly balancing the height of a collar to echo the height of a cuff, why not ? makes complete sense to me to get that balance if designing and making from scratch.
I will pay attention to the neckline to make sure it's depth or width echoes with other areas within the design.
The amount of dress from the empire down (which is my signature style) has to be a certain length say 2/3rds compared to 1/3rd top part for a flattering look.
Another very important thing I insist on is below the knee, ( it can be a battle sometimes ), women will say but that's the best part of me now, however just because something is longer doesn't mean you loose the shape/definition of a slim leg and lets face it nobody's knees are great at the best of times.
Here is exactly the same design but above the knee, even if its actually sits on the knee you can bet off the peg skirts/fitted dresses will be wide at the knee like my drawing, Ladies it doesn't have to be this way, the industry uses bog standard patterns over and over and it saves them fabric costs !!! I know some of you will say but that looks sexier and it really comes down to taste level I suppose. Elegance is always the way forward for me, that's my lane and i'm sticking to it x
P.S this has given me an idea of my next blog - to show you some styling tips on how to flatter your body shape, this will be in a couple of days folks as I actually have to finish that fabric painting I started !!!